I always thought clothing fraud was limited to modern designer and licensed label items but that's not the case at all. Buyer beware seems to apply to everything online including vintage clothing, particularly haute couture (HC). Whether you're a collector or just in the market for a vintage dress or handbag, you need to know what you're buying.
Most vintage garments and accessories are not HC but you should still be aware of what's vintage, what's repro and what's couture. Vintage styles are always returning to fashion like in the early 1970s when Edwardian style was all the rage and in the 1980s when the 1950s and Victorian styles made comebacks - think granny boots. Currently, 1960s and 70s vintage style is in vogue and it's easy to be led to believe many of these items are much older than they really are.
Most vintage garments and accessories are not HC but you should still be aware of what's vintage, what's repro and what's couture. Vintage styles are always returning to fashion like in the early 1970s when Edwardian style was all the rage and in the 1980s when the 1950s and Victorian styles made comebacks - think granny boots. Currently, 1960s and 70s vintage style is in vogue and it's easy to be led to believe many of these items are much older than they really are.
In the case of HC, a single garment can fetch thousands of dollars. Ever since Charles Worth opened the first Parisian fashion house in 1858, knock-offs have become commonplace. In the 1920s, designers like Vionnet, Schiaparelli and Chanel were forever changing the way women would dress and feel about fashion. Enter Hollywood and the Singer home sewing machine and suddenly every woman could create her own version of a favorite actor's clothes. The Studios, quick to realize the American woman's love of couture, imported couturiers like Chanel for movie costumes to help increase theater attendance during the Depression. Then there were the ready-to-wear lines by the houses. Madame Vionnet led the charge in 1925 by opening a boutique in NY where she sold garments with unfinished hems in varying sizes so they could be tailored to any body. So adamant was she about protecting her designs that she fingerprinted her labels and though she helped introduce the first anti-copyist laws in 1923, these didn't stop anyone. Department stores had already begun mass producing copies of Parisian dresses and movie costumes like Joan Crawford's dress in Letty Lyndon (Adrian 1932).
Women were skilled home sewers and patterns were plentiful, some endorsed by the couturiers themselves which even included a label for the garment. The Studios also provided costume patterns and tips in popular women's magazines. In the hands of an unscrupulous seller, these home sewn and store bought copies can magically be transformed into something they're not simply by adding a label, be it a newly made fake or a real label from a damaged garment. The only requirements are a copy that fits the bill and an unsuspecting buyer. Keep in mind too that vintage fabric is available online along side those patterns; these and a good seamstress are all that are needed for a passable vintage garment, labeled or not. Educate yourself by learning about sewing techniques not commonly used today.
Something that has always irked me about the fashion houses is that none offer any type of archival information. I assume they want you to buy the current lines for profits rather than drool over what's no longer for sale. Most offer company timelines but nothing too exact like how to date their garments let alone providing clues for authentication purposes. The fact is, if these sellers were listing modern repros, houses like Louis Vuitton who zealously protect their brand would be on the phone to their lawyers. The houses don't care if that 1950s Dior coat really came off a rack at Sears, just don't try to sell a new one. This means you have to do your own research. Couture clothing has specifics; bound buttonholes and seam allowances, hand sewing, quality fabric, etc. The word couture is so ridiculously common in listings these days, be sure to know what constitutes it.When looking at a listing for clothing, designer or not, there are a few things you'd expect to see like clear photos of all components including the label. It's all in the details when it comes to identifying couture. The description should be descriptive; ie, no cookie cutter listings. Vintage garments are most always unique and descriptions can't use a one size fits all format. I'm leery of those sellers whose entire used inventory is in "mint" condition and I'm also bothered by listings that end with No Returns or the safety net, "These are used items and as such will show age. Don't like it? DON'T buy it!"...nice attitude.
Lastly, remember to check feedback on the sites that offer it and I mean read it. The psychology of feedback is strange indeed. Some buyers will leave a positive rating for a less than stellar transaction. I'm not sure why this happens but I suspect they feel any mistakes made were honest ones on the seller's part, or perhaps they feel there will be retribution or are threatened and I've dealt with a few of these bully sellers myself. Thankfully, some buyers who leave a positive but feel something was amiss will include it in their feedback. Even if a seller has 100% feedback, it will still be revealing and worth your time to read.
Some of my favorite sites are listed below and are must visits if you plan to blow the budget on vintage clothing. A little research can save you a lot of time, effort and money.
Vintage Fashion Guild - This non-profit sites offers a label resource, fashion time lines and a free forum to ask dating questions to members:
http://vintagefashionguild.org/
A seriously eye-opening blog regarding the fraudulent use of couture and designer labels:
http://coutureallure.blogspot.com/2010/01/beware-of-fraudulent-label-switching.html
Some of my favorite sites are listed below and are must visits if you plan to blow the budget on vintage clothing. A little research can save you a lot of time, effort and money.
Vintage Fashion Guild - This non-profit sites offers a label resource, fashion time lines and a free forum to ask dating questions to members:
http://vintagefashionguild.org/A seriously eye-opening blog regarding the fraudulent use of couture and designer labels:
http://coutureallure.blogspot.com/2010/01/beware-of-fraudulent-label-switching.htmlIn-depth VCA resource containing links covering all aspects including dating, fabrics, labels and history:
http://www.squidoo.com/vintageclothingresearchMust have book for buying couture - Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Shaeffer. Read an excerpt here:
http://www.isbnlib.com/preview/1600853358/Couture-Sewing-Techniques-Revised-and-UpdatedA great how-to article from Threads about vintage sewing techniques:
