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| Babe Paley 1946 |
All the recent hullabaloo over the fascinators worn at the Royal Wedding made me think of the American upper crust. The Social Register once consisted of the "400", those "old money" families like the Astors and Vanderbilts. The 1930s introduced the socialite; the newly rich and those who married into money. They captivated the American public and up until the 1970s, had a significant influence on fashion.
Unlike the old money families, the nouveau riche were happy to flaunt their cash. While the country was plunged into the Great Depression, they flocked to El Morocco and The Stork Club, the places to be seen in New York. There was no shortage of cash at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel which opened in 1931 at a cost of $42 million. It employed Elsa Maxwell, the premiere party planner of the day and inventor of the scavenger hunt and other parlor games. By the 1940s, socialites like Babe Paley ushered in a new generation and the public wanted to know about them. Their names appeared regularly in the gossip columns and even their smallest gestures were imitated by women everywhere. These ladies frequently graced the NY Dress Institute's Best Dressed Lists and all were inducted into the Fashion Hall of Fame.
C.Z. Guest was born Lucy Douglas Cochrane in Boston to an investment banker and started out as an actress. Her marriage to Winston Frederick Churchill Guest, heir to the Phipps steel fortune, actually lasted! She was known for her typically American simple and clean cut style. Among her favorite designers were Mainbocher, Givenchy and Adolfo. Guest started a gardening column for the New York Post in 1976 and later designed sweaters, sportswear and gardening items.
Close friend Slim Keith was born Mary Raye Gross in Salinas, California and was 22 when she first appeared on the cover of Harper's Bazaar. Called the original "California Girl" for her looks and athleticism, from the age of 16 she was often seen at Hollywood parties. Her husbands were director Howard Hawks, Broadway producer Leland Hayward and British banker Kenneth Keith. She won the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award in 1946, an honor previously reserved for those in the industry.
Gloria Guinness was born Gloria Rubio y Alatorre in Mexico. She worked in a nightclub before moving to Germany where she married the first of her four husbands, finally landing Thomas Loel Guinness, Member of Parliament and the Guinness beer family. This fashion icon wore many designers including Balenciaga, Schiaparelli, Dior, Chanel and YSL and was one of the first women to wear Pucci's capri pants. She became a contributing editor to Harper's Bazaar from 1963-71 and before her death she donated several important garments to the Victoria & Albert Museum.
My favorite socialite was Babe Mortimer Paley, born Barbara Cushing in Boston. Her father was America’s first neurosurgeon whose three daughters more than compensated for his lack of wealth. Babe, the youngest and a beauty, was a fashion editor for Vogue when she married oil heir Stanley Grafton Mortimer Jr. Her position gave this glamorous gal access to designer clothes, usually in exchange for publicity. She then married William S. Paley, founder of CBS, who was interested in Babe's social connections which, due to his Jewish heritage, eluded him. For Babe, Paley offered immense wealth and though they were excluded from many functions and clubs, they entertained their high society friends lavishly. Women loved her unconventional style and when a photo appeared of Babe with a scarf tied to her handbag, women everywhere copied it. She combined fine jewelry with costume and made pantsuits fashionable. Having led a somewhat sad life, of her Truman Capote would say, “Babe Paley had only one fault, she was perfect. Otherwise, she was perfect.”
Times of course change and by the 1970s the daily Society page in the newspaper turned into a Sunday Style section. Due to the efforts of women like Brooke Astor, the socialite entered into the world of philanthropy, raising millions for their efforts. Unlike past socialites who sought good times, today's socialites devote themselves to causes or conversely, seek publicity and perks like clothing and travel. Women like Paris Hilton are the new generation who pose for the cameras while earning millions in fees.
When you look at these women, you just can't help but be impressed by their style. Sure, they had money but I still believe very few women could have filled their shoes. Truth be told, few lived or died happily. Think of Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton, the "Poor Little Rich Girl", who managed to reduce an inheritance of 42 million (2 billion today) to $3500 over the course of her lifetime! Regardless, these dames managed to break through social barriers and influence women worldwide. If anything, they proved high society wasn't reserved for blue bloods and forever will they be remembered for their pursuit of fairy tales and great clothes.
